Syunik Wilderness Expedition

The most uncompromising of our routes: in convoy behind our lead guide over the roughest tracks of southern Armenia — drive yourself if you like. From the pierced stone rows of Karahunj we climb to 3,300 metres for the ancient petroglyphs of Ughtasar, on to the roaring Shaki waterfall, over the Vorotan Pass and down into the cave town of Khndzoresk, on to the cliff monastery of Tatev and the warm pools of Satani Kamurj. Two nights are spent under canvas: in thin air beneath the petroglyphs of Ughtasar and on the shore of the Black Lake, Sev Lich, at 2,666 metres. Campfire, starlit sky, no signal but our satellite network — for seasoned adventurers.

1. 1

   Yerevan & the stone rows of Karahunj

   Convoy start in Yerevan: via Vayots Dzor and the Sisian steppe to the pierced stone rows of Zorats Karer, the “Armenian Stonehenge” at 1,770 metres. Overnight in Sisian.

2. 2

   Off-road to the Ughtasar petroglyphs

   A full day over rough scree: 25 kilometres of highland track with fords and rock steps, climbing to 3,300 metres and the petroglyphs of Ughtasar — ibex, hunters and celestial symbols, pecked into the rock by shepherds millennia ago. Wild camp in thin air, far above the treeline.

3. 3

   Shaki waterfall, the Vorotan Pass & the cave town of Khndzoresk

   Down from Ughtasar back to Sisian, then to the 18-metre veil of the Shaki waterfall and over the Vorotan Pass into the gorge at Goris — closing with a walk through the cave town of Khndzoresk and across its swaying suspension bridge.

4. 4

   Tatev & the Devil’s Bridge

   A drive to the cliff monastery of Tatev, high above its gorge, followed by a bathe in the warm travertine pools of Satani Kamurj.

5. 5

   Off-road to the Black Lake, Sev Lich

   Two hours of rough highland track, boggy stretches and steep ramps bring us to Sev Lich, the Black Lake at 2,666 metres near the border with Azerbaijan — about as remote as it gets. Wild camp on the shore.

6. 6

   The way back & the Shikahogh reserve

   The drive back from Sev Lich to Goris, then into the primeval forest of the Shikahogh reserve: fords across the Shikahogh river, washed-out forestry tracks and ancient upland woodland up to 2,800 metres.

7. 7

   Departure

   A long drive back via Sisian and Yeghegnadzor to Yerevan, vehicle handback.