North: Sevan, Dilijan & the Monasteries of Lori

The green north of Armenia, reached by none of our other routes: we leave Yerevan for Lake Sevan, its blue highland water unfolding beside the road for a good half hour, then arrive in Dilijan, wrapped in dense beech and oak forest — Armenians affectionately call it their “little Switzerland”. In Dilijan National Park we walk through Caucasian forest, past bear tracks and across stream crossings, before the path climbs to Haghartsin monastery, tucked away in its oak grove. On the second day the drive drops into the Debed valley and Lori: in the village of Haghpat, home to a UNESCO World Heritage monastery, we wander between basalt walls high above the gorge, then continue to the sister monastery of Sanahin and the fortified monastery of Akhtala. On the third day we leave the monasteries behind and follow the Dzoraget canyon up onto the open highland, where Trchkan — Armenia’s largest waterfall at 23.5 metres of free fall — plunges alone over the rock edge. Nights are spent in Dilijan and twice in Alaverdi — green, cool, a counterpoint to the arid south.

1. 1

   Lake Sevan, Dilijan National Park & Haghartsin

   The drive from the highland waters of Lake Sevan into the forests of Dilijan: in the national park we follow paths between beech trees and stream crossings, then climb to Haghartsin monastery, tucked into a clearing among the oaks. Overnight in Dilijan.

2. 2

   Into the Debed Valley: Haghpat, Sanahin & Akhtala

   Down into Armenia’s deepest valley: in the village of Haghpat, home to a UNESCO World Heritage monastery, we wander between basalt walls high above the Debed gorge, then continue to the sister monastery of Sanahin and the fortified monastery of Akhtala, which has guarded the valley for centuries. Overnight in Alaverdi.

3. 3

   Dzoraget Canyon & the Trchkan Waterfall

   From Alaverdi up onto the open highland at the edge of Shirak: the road follows the Dzoraget canyon, cutting up to 300 metres deep into the basalt, then a gravel track crosses wide mountain country to Trchkan, Armenia’s largest waterfall at 23.5 metres of free fall. Drive back for a second night in Alaverdi.

4. 4

   Departure

   The drive back via Dilijan and Lake Sevan to Yerevan, departure.